The Life of Pai

Oh Pai. I've learned a lot about myself here in the last two days. Like, I can drive a scooter pretty well. I can sleep fairly well on a hard mattress on the ground and I can shower under a dribbley tap. I also learned that after a heavy nights drinking I can (and will) cancel all travel plans for that day and take to my bed. We leave for Laos tonight straight from Pai which was actually much more efficient than our original plan (going back to Chiang Mai and then on to Laos). Live and learn. 

The countryside is fabulous here. Well, when it takes a 3 hour bus journey through 770 sharp bends you'd want it to be spectacular. It's a strange place. It's lovely, don't get me wrong. But it's strange. Its got a real hippie vibe and full of bars and little restaurants. Its very 'westernised' if I can use that word. I definitly felt like I was more in Thailand back in Chiang Mai. All the same, I like it here. So chilled out and with nothing in particular to go look at it gives you a chance to slow down and breathe. Just drive around on your scooter and take in the scenery. That is all. 

We actually spent one of our mornings in a hot spring resort. Everyone was complaining the hot springs were too expensive at 200baht entry. But we ended up in this gorgeous little resort costing us 100baht (2.50eur) each for a full day use of the springs and the swimming pool. Not very backpacker of us but well deserved all the same considering our crappy shower. Then the rest of the time we just drove around the little roads, stopping off to look at Pai canyon (scary), some waterfalls (lovely) and just to take in the views. We ate from street vendors last night and for 1.50eur I got some sushi, a bowl full of noodle salad and a spicy potato curry. Also, I did see a lot of people taking elephant rides along the road and did actually see some trainers hit the elephants for no apparent reason which wasnt nice. Me being me, slowed my scooter down to shout at one fella but he just laughed at me. Sigh. I'm not going to save the world just yet, it seems. 

So now I'm finishing up my breakfast here at KK Hut and going to head out for the day on the bike before taking a 6 hour bus to the border of Laos. It's a tough life. 

Chiang Mai

I'm not sure how to explain the last couple days. We reached Chiang Mai after a week on Koh Phi Phi and what a different world it is up here in Northern Thailand. It's amazing. The feel of the place is different, more alive and conscientious than Koh Phi Phi. It's more laid back, organized and friendly. I don't feel unhealthy here like I did on the island. I mentioned before that I was feeling homesick but I've turned a corner here in Chiang Mai. I love it here and think ill be adding it to my list of places 'I could live'. I actually made a quick visit to the hospital to have a cut looked at (hypochondriac that I am) and Thai hospitals are kicking Irish hospital butt. I think that sealed the deal for me. 

When I wasn't busy worrying about my minor injury we were out and about town. Chiang Mai has so much to offer. I can't count or name the amount of temples we came across. They are so beautiful they make you consider why our own churches are so dull and bland. Buddhist monks also seem to be very approachable. We spotted a lot of people giving offerings to monks and in return monks giving children keep safe bracelets and blessings. I need to find out more about Buddhism. We also visited a mountain top temple about 40 minutes outside of town. It had a serpent lined stairway the whole way up with little girls in traditional costume along the sides. Very cute but we were wondering if they should be in school instead of out working....

An absolute highlight for me on the whole entire trip has been our two day trek in the 'jungle'. Ok so included in the package was a one hour elephant ride which we were desperately trying to avoid. This is my conflict; I have myself gone horse riding and used a whip on a horse. I've smacked the dog for 'misbehaving' and I've lived on a farm where all our animals are confined. However, there is something so miserable and soul destroying about an elephant being confined. Maybe it's their sheer mass or their gentle nature. Or maybe it's the massive chain tied around their ankle and the fact they rock themselves back and forth on the side of the road as if trying to walk away. It would also be easy to blame the locals and say they are bad but it's their livelihood and income. Tourists (myself and Lorna included) are paying good money to do this day in and day out all year round. I'm not sure what my opinion is but I do know it broke my heart to see a baby elephant tied up and in a panic at not being able to follow its mother out of the pen. I don't know. 

The rest of the trek was amazing. Although the terrain is challenging I wish I had looked up a bit more instead of calculating where my feet went next. Actually, myself and Lorna were wondering if we'd be ok to do the trek in our Vans and Converse but we were in a group with two Dutch fellas who decided they'd rather trek for two days in flip flops than get their trainers dirty. We figured we'd survive. Our guide was called Chai (probably not spelled correctly) who cooked all our food served in banana leaves with chopsticks he made himself from bamboo. He took us to the hilltop village where he grew up and his family still live. There is no electricity and our accommodation was a little hut with a mosquito net around us. We spent the evening eating green curry, drinking beers around a campfire and listening to the jungle sounds around us. Don't do this if you are used to your comforts and expect a hot shower cos you won't get it. But, what you will get is a sense of perspective. We are so spoiled and these people have much less and seem happier. There was something very special about these people. Chai is an educated guy but very proud of his village and his family. He had his son join us at the campfire and his parents came to say hello. He even told us to go up and see the little school where we were invited in to say hello to the kids. I know these people receive visitors daily but they are so genuine. It's definitely something that will stay with me. 

If you go to Chiang Mai there are some places worth checking out:

- Stay in Kikies guesthouse (everything you need from a cheap and clean hostel with excellent staff)

- Breakfast in Blue Diamond.

- Eat at Bamboo Bee (thai veggie restaurant, cute little place with lovely owner. She even does cooking classes.)

- Get a Thai massage, cheaper and better quality here in Chiang Mai.

- Visit the Sunday market in the heart of the old town.

- Eat from the street. All the locals do and the food is great. 

- Take a cooking course and learn to make genuine Thai dishes.

And since my foot is healing up nicely, today we are leaving for Pai closer to the Burmese border. I've heard mixed things; a bit too touristy perhaps, a party town, amazing countryside, chilled out vibe, etc. so we'll see. We have to survive the 700 turns up the mountain in a minibus first. Till then...

Koh Phi Phi

We leave Koh Phi Phi tomorrow for the more humid and cultured atmosphere of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. I can't wait. Much like that summer I spent working in Corfu, Greece, my time here on Koh Phi Phi won't have added much to my life or my development as a person. Maybe my development of a tough immune system but not much else. Lorna read on some blog that the islanders pump their waste directly into the sea, giving a few lucky visitors a hefty dose of pink eye. It could also be a rumor but we avoided paddling since.

Now, don't get me wrong; I've had a great time here. But Koh Phi Phi isn't a highlight for me. Now maybe I need to lighten up a little; the island is stunning and certainly lively. But it's not for me. We've been here a week but its been about 5 days too much. The most we've really done is sun bathe, sleep ridiculous hours of the day, wander around the stalls, climb the monkey lined path to the viewpoint (official Tsunami evacuation route FYI) and take a trip to the infamous Maya Beach (Leonardo's beach - but I'll talk about that in a sec.) Which is actually all fine, gives us some down time to catch our breath and relax before we head off trekking and whatnot in Northern Thailand and Laos. Oh, we'll we've drank a fair bit as well, it's hard not to here. :) 

The island definitely has lots to offer. It's one of the best places to scuba dive and many schools to choose from. There are all sorts of day trips to other islands and activities to suit everyone. We took a trip over to Maya beach where 'The Beach' was filmed and had a look. Have to say, bit of a let down. The best part was being told we had to swim from the boat to the island and climb up a rope ladder to enter the bay. Bit of an experience but highly wheelchair unfriendly. The beach itself was beautiful. No denying it. But it's jammers there. Literally teeming full of people. That wouldn't be so bad if there wasn't a hundred awful, noisy speedboats blocking the view. Myself and Lorna walked the length of the beach and found a spot to take a boat free pic. Anyway, we'll make a note for the future to go a bit more off the beaten track. 

Thailand so far has been an experience. It certainly has a different personality compared to that of Malaysia and Singapore. I won't go on too much about it because you'll think I'm having a terrible time and I don't want to make a flash opinion on how some people live (even though that's exactly what I'm doing). I think I need to change my expectations and mind set a bit. I just have to suck up the fact that toilets here are awful. 

Anyway, it's on to Chiang Mai tomorrow for some elephant conservation, jungle trekking and lots more. 

One week in Asia

I honestly don't know where to start. Only one week in Asia and not not only have I already seen and done a lot, I've been through an absolute whirlwind of emotion. My head has been spinning and I think I'm only now coming out of it. Traveling from Singapore to Malaysia is tough when your emotional mindset has been through the wars. See the following list. Don't worry, I'll keep it brief. 

A) no emotion (obviously numbing my anxiousness about leaving)

B) extreme homesickness (for himself, for my family, for herself, the dogs, Amsterdam...you name it, I was homesick for it.)

C) disappointment (that I didn't get the job I interviewed for.)

D) excitement (fuck the job, I'm going traveling for 6 months!)

C) over enthusiasm (I'm going to travel the world!)

D) homesickness again.

E) rage (on hearing the detailed feedback as to why I didn't get the job). 

F) excitement and determination. (fuck the job, I'm going traveling for 6 months!)

Anyway, now I've calmed down a bit I'm beginning to relax and look at the job at hand. I've already had an amazing week here in Asia and I've still got 23 more of these to come. Anything is possible at this stage and I'm really up for the challenge. Easy peasy so long as I don't poison myself with mosquito repellent.

But despite the above I've loved every second here. Singapore was nice, a strange place in my opinion but somewhere worth seeing. It's got a very modern vibe that somehow lacks a bit of character. We didn't overexert ourselves here now, trying to get ourselves acclimatized, it can be a struggle to get around when your face is continuously and profusely perspiring. Anyhow. 

What we did in Singapore:

- eat from 'hawker centers'

- get my fortune told by a man at bugis centre, (I'm going to live a long, long life but I must remain indoors from 10-11.30 pm every day for the rest of the year as this is my danger time.)

- sit all day in the botanical garden, watching the world go by where I could sweat in peace.

- have a look at the f1 track and talk to people who's budget for the weekend was three times more than my entire budget for 6 months, sickening. 

- get the shakes on the skywalk in the supertree garden. Hard to say if I faced my fear of heights here or succumbed to it. Could have went either way really.

What has been the nicest so far was the little town of Malacca about halfway between KL and Singapore. It's a bit grimey but has fantastic history and great locals. Better to go there during the weekend though as it was a bit dead mid-week. Whatever you are into I suppose. 

Some things to do in Malacca:

- take the boat tour. I wouldn't bother with the monorail.

- go to the baba nyonya museum, but don't buy your tickets from the 'nice guy' in the antique shop as he'll actually sell you tickets to the 'lesser' jewellery museum and not tell you...fecker.

- take the Eco bike tour through the plantations to see palm trees and rubber trees. It's probably a bit expensive for malaysia at 100rm pax but worth doing all the same. 

- eat in the Capitol satay restaurant. 

- go for a beer in the atmospheric shantaram 'bar'. 

One story I do have to share however, and something that will stay with me forever is the disco rickshaw covered in Christmas lights. Don't judge. Me and Lorna, happy as Larry, just enjoying the ride, having a little head bop. Coming around the top of temple street our driver slowed down. We spotted a bird on the pavement and we figured he was going to help it. Wrong. Laughing like a maniac, he cornered the bird, grabbed it, found a plastic bag, put the bird in the bag and tied it to the rickshaw. WTF. We were speechless. I can't describe the feeling of riding through a city in a glittering disco rickshaw in complete silence with a dying, fluttering bird tied to the side of your seat. The most we learned was that our driver friend was going to make soup. No, we didn't know what to say either. 

Leaving the bird to the side, we are setting our sights on ko phi phi for some beach time. Queue that old All Saints song...

Home is never too far away

Leaving isn't a difficult thing to do. In the end it's really just walking out the door. The thought of leaving, now that is a different thing. Thursday morning this week, after weeks and months of planning, talking and general preparation, I just picked up my bag and walked out the door. Not so difficult. 

My family took me to the airport and after what can only be described as an emotional goodbye, I quickly slipped behind the wall and into the queue at security. This was the difficult part, I have to admit. Although, emotional as it was, my dad and my brother both called within a half hour to give out to me about two different things. That's family for you. 

What was much more amusing was saying goodbye to my gran. 80 years old and I swear she's going to outlive us all. I went in to have a cup of tea with her before I left. I gave her a hug and said I more than likely wouldn't be home for Xmas. You know what she says back? 'Oh but will himself still be able to visit? I loves that chap you know. I loves him like I loves my two grandsons.' Knowing my gran as I do and reading in between the lines, this roughly equates to her loving himself more than me. Thanks Gran. 

24 hours later I'm sitting in my hostel in Singapore waiting for an old school friend to pick me up for dinner. In the meantime I've texted my brother John, Skyped with my dad and Facebooked my little bro. 7 time zones ahead and we know each others every move. Never too far away from home. 

Home is no holiday, it's heaven.

I've been home for two weeks now. Two weeks since I left himself in Munich. It's flown by. I was supposed to leave for Singapore last Thursday but felt so strange leaving home so soon. It doesn't affect my overall plan for the next few months. So, feck it, why not? An extra week with the family and the two dogs is just what the doctor ordered. I've done loads of nice family things. Nothing terribly interesting but all so satisfying. Mostly just stuff like helping my little brother move up to college for his first year, go test drive electric cars with my dad (that he has no intention of ever buying) and helping my ma to pack for her own holiday. I also drank way too much tea, brought the dogs for many a walk and got to listen to how my great Aunt was chatted up by a youthful 75 year old on the beach this year when she was on hold with my gran in Tramore, Co. Waterford. Apparently, some glistening pensioner came up to her on the beach in nothing but a towel and insisted she take his number. My gran was jealous out the door; going on and on about it being 'indecent'. But I nearly choked when my great aunt said "we'll, at least I know upfront I'm not buying a pig in a blanket'. My gran was raging. 

Anyway, it's the last few days now at home, in the middle of absolutely nowhere and even though I decided to stay an extra week it doesn't feel enough somehow. 

It's never fecking easy, is it?

Maybe when I get back I'll spend a bit longer at home in the wilds of Wexico either walking the dogs or test driving the latest electric car on the market. 

I'm looking forward to it already. 

Heartbroken and hopeful in Munich

I honestly hope the next couple of months are worth the goodbye between myself and himself. Safe to say my heart is a little bit broken this morning. Although saying that, our actual goodbye was such a letdown. i had a pocketful of tissues at the ready, preparing myself considering the sad (but also lovely) evening we had the night before. But instead I was forced up on the airport bus with about two seconds to kiss himself goodbye. Ah well. I'm just glad I decided I absolutely couldn't go traveling for 6 months without seeing where he is setting up camp for the next while, I'm so, so glad I did. It was perfect. 

Well, when I say perfect, there was a minor detail or two that could have went more smoothly. One was my fault and one was not my fault. We got to Munich after a 6 hour train ride straight from Utrecht. It didn't even cross my mind that the big, fancy ICE trains wouldn't have wifi access. I had planned to double check the address of our accommodation and plan a route while we were in transit. I live in my own bubble but trust me, in future, I will be more prepared. I had booked three nights through www.airbnb.com, the latest craze in accommodation. We picked a cute little apartment in central Munich for about 176.00eur in total for the weekend. But, I couldn't find the reservation on my account. We had to track it down using Google, Google Maps, customer support hotlines and even knocking on doors. The problem ended up being me having two Airbnb accounts and not realizing it, sometimes using Facebook to login, etc. We finally got to the flat after tracking down the keys in a bakery. Don't ask. After the treasure hunt, we were craving a long shower and then we found out there was no hot water. Speaking with the owner of the flat we were told there would be no hot water all weekend (this seemed like a complete surprise to her too). Fantastic. We decided not to get angry about it, we'd complain formally later in the week, boil some water on the hob and wash each others hair like hippies.

The way I see it, the only problem with himself moving to Munich is that I'm not moving there with him. I'm jealous. We visited two years ago but were only there for a day. I didn't know how green and beautiful the place is. Also, it's bike friendly, yay! We had two full days together. The Friday morning we headed out to Nymphenburg Palace, navigated our way to himselfs office in the north of the city (which made me happy) and from there back the whole way into the centre to Marianplatz where we wandered around for the evening. 

The next day was a better tourist day altogether. We said we'd take a bike tour, meeting Lenny's bike tours by the fish fountain on Marianplatz at 11.30. It was 15eur each for a 3 1/2 hour tour. An absolute bargain and you get to see all the important sites in a quick, comfortable and cool way. 

Off the top of my head, my top three tourist things to see in the city would be:

- river surfing in the English Garden.

- dodgers lane way (a monument for those who went out of their way not to do the nazi salute)

- walk the river Isar banks (it's very green)

- nudist parks (apparently one can strip off in whichever park one prefers)

- and the Chinese Tower beer garden, second biggest in the world we were told, seating up to 7,000 people at a time.

There is too much to see and do in this city and not to mention what lies in reach of the place too. (Dachau, Neuschanstein Castle, Salzburg, Innsbruck and so much more.) Maybe when I'm finished saving the world in Asia 'Ill come back and be a bike tour guide for Lenny's. Not too bad an idea if himself decides he wants to stick around. Let's see eh?

For now, I've bigger fish to fry. I'm off home for two weeks. 

Last Minute Trip to Antwerp

Myself and herself decided to have one last hurrah before I leave this week and headed down to Antwerp for the day. At 32EUR return it's an absolute bargain for a train ticket but keep in mind it will take 2 1/2 hours to get there. What better way to celebrate a sixth month trip abroad than going to Belgium for the day?

We got there about 13.00 in the afternoon and the first thing herself decided to do is step in dog poop. I couldn't even look at her for about ten minutes I felt so queasy but she cleaned herself up and we persevered.

I won't be able to tell you much about the city itself or the history. Our intention was to go somewhere neither of us had been before and soak up the feel of the place. Antwerp has a beautiful old town centre. It has elaborate building facades and tall city houses. It wasn't as medieval as we thought it might be but it;s a fabulous place for a day trip.

So, what did we do all day...?

• ate Belgian chocolate (obviously) 
• drank Belgian beer (see above)
• got a tour on a horse and cart (I felt bad for the horses)
• walked for hours through windy city streets
• ate in a Mexican restaurant and were served by a Cork man (as you do)

If I were to go back I'd get a walking tour of the place and spend a couple of hours at the zoo. It's right outside the central stations front door and it's reported to have amazing gardens. Then again, same as with the horses above, I'd probably only feel bad for the animals.

We rounded off the day waiting in the station for our train. I found a cycle station where I could pedal to charge my iPad. It was a bit of hassle though, ten minutes cycling only got me from 5% power to 7%, I thought I'd get a super charge for my efforts. Mentioning the train station, Antwerp Centraal is a beautiful station, one of the nicest I've ever seen. We were walking with our faces towards the ceiling taking it all in when what happens only herself walks into dog poop again. And I had to sit beside her the whole way back to Amsterdam. Grand.

Packing Up

We are now in the midst of saying our goodbyes and packing up. I'm feeling the excitment, finally. My last day in work was last Friday. What a feeling it is to throw out all the crap I've collected in my drawers over the last three years. I didn't even mind giving back my iPhone, not even a little bit. I said my goodbyes to my desk and a few of us headed to Hannekes Boom, a lovely bar close to Amsterdam Centraal station. It looks over the water with a fabulous view of the old customs house and the Nemo Science musuem. Safe to say we didn't recognise the one that was one too many but I do recall saying to someone at some stage that this was the 'tipping point'. It was.

The Saturday night was himselfs going away drinks; a house party. I was seriously struggling from the night before but I made a good go of it. I managed to stay awake and functioning until 3. Although, I do admit I was found around this time curled into a sleepy little ball on the couch cuddling my iPad. I have to say that I admire the way the Dutch think about the gifts they give. Basically, 'the boys' came up with giving himself a care package; a Munich survival kit. He got good Dutch cheese, Utrechtse brewed beers along with a Munich guide book and a first aid kit. I can't imagine Irish men being that thoughtful. Although saying that, they did give him a Playboy and some wet wipes. Boys will be boys I suppose.

Sunday we went cycling over to the pancake house to sure our hangover. The area there, Rhijnauwen, is beautiful and covered in bunkers from both world wars. Himself said the area was an important strategic point to defend from the Germans and that all the bunkers were built here with the Rhijnauwen river acting a natural barrier. It's quite a spectacular place and just twenty minutes cycling outside of Utrecht. It was also nice to just be outside near some nature and animals. Amsterdam is covered in green parks but nothing beats the actual countryside. We were able to cycle past fields of cows and sheep. At one point we stopped to take a picture of sheep walking in single file along a stream. We were talking about how if one sheep gets an idea to do something the rest of them will do the same. Although, being a sheep, you wouldn't get ideas very often so if one of them did think of something, you'd do it like.

The beginning of the beginning

I started the packing. There isn't much to do in fairness especially since I'm coming back in a couple months. Just need to clear my room and throw away anything I won't be thrilled to see when I come back. It's such therapy to throw away a load of crap. I love it. I made 3 trips down to the skips. One for genuine rubbish, one for old clothes and one for a load of cardboard boxes that were squatting rent-free in the closet. 

My room is bare now. All that's left is my furniture and clothes and to give the floor a good thorough cleaning. Which reminds me, was in himselfs house at the weekend. We were woken up to a mad flurry of feathers; a magpie was throwing itself up against the window desperately trying to find a way out. It not being my house, himself, on autopilot, put his contacts in and stuck his legs in his trousers which he put on backwards. He noticed straight away and just as if he was leaving the house for work, went about putting them on the right way. Which made me laugh because I'm pretty sure the magpie wouldn't have noticed. Anyway, as soon as his feet touched the ground floor the bird was out the window. But not before he deposited a fair amount of, eh, deposit, all over the couch. Actually, all over the couch, walls, radiator, floor, laptop and curtains. Putrid. The look on his face was priceless. I must have giggled for a solid 15 minutes at him daintily trying to clean it up holding the sponge with as little fingers as possible and not vomit at the same time. 

How and ever, he had the last laugh. I ended up cleaning it up for him. What?! He wasn't doing it properly.