Friday, 25 October 2013

Viva Vang Vieng

When I was getting my vaccinations before I left Amsterdam the nurse told me to absolutely stay out of local rivers and lakes. I think in this week alone I've spent more time in local water sources than I have in my entire life. Tuesday, we booked a full day tour cave tubing and kayaking. What's cave tubing? Pretty much what it sounds like. You strap a torch to your head, sit yourself in the inner tube of an old tyre and pull yourself through a cave in the dark. We felt really adventurous until a group of elderly Koreans passed us out, splashing us and laughing like maniacs. Kayaking was a bit of fun too. I was just complaining to Lorna that the river was too quiet (not enough 'rapids', you know) when we went over a bump and crashed sideways into a massive tree at the side of the river. Lorna fell out of the boat instanteously. I more or less launched myself out in total panic. It was funny because the river was shallow but we were taken away by the strong current, holding on to our kayak for dear life. Our tour guide rescued us, pulling us up by the scruff of the neck into the boat.

The day after that we went tubing. Tubing is possibly the most infamous backpacker pastime ever. Last year alone 27 people died tubing. That doesn't even count all the accidents. That statistic alone should have been enough to keep us away. I suppose the fact that only 3 bars are open now was a strange reassurance, the other 16 closed due to an Australian MPs son dying during the summer (I heard someone say 'There's always one that ruins it for everyone else'). They've also closed down the ziplines and the subtlely named 'Slide of Death'. Anyway, we rented our tube and took a Tuk Tuk 3kms up river. Lorna asked for a life jacket and they said it was in the truck. It wasn't. And so off we went floating down a river, going from bar to bar to bar, drinking, collecting bracelets for every drink, and talking rot to people we just met. At the second bar there was body paint and after seeing a local woman paint a gorgeous flower on a girl I asked her to paint me (yes, I am that cool) but instead she paints the word FREE on my stomach and a big arrow pointing towards my bikini bottoms. Lovely. We stayed out in the last bar until 5.30 which doesn't sound wild but it takes a good hour and a half to float back to town and here it gets dark at 6. At least there was a group of us together; ourselves, three Germans, an Australian lady and her 12 year old son (imagine your mam taking you tubing!) and some other Irish we picked up along the way. Which would have been fine only I got separated from the group and floated in total darkness by myself for a solid twenty minutes. I also fell into the river out of my tube at one stage since one of the Germans got excited trying to take a picture and flipped my tube accidently. No, I wasn't annoyed at all. 


The next day was a write off. I was so hungover from the day and night before (because a days drinking just isn't enough) that I stayed in bed all day. Lorna was fine but she had the good sense to quit while the going was good. I only left the guesthouse to go next door to the restaurant where they play Friends all day long. I watched a lot of Friends that day. Which is fine, because if I'm traveling for six months I'm going to have to have days where I do nothing so it wasnt wasted...what?!

Yesterday we were full of motivation after sleeping our lives away. We vowed to keep walking past the Friends restaurant and rented bikes. As soon as we paid, and I mean literally handed over cash to the lady, it started to drizzle. Looking at each other in total dismay we said 'Fuck it, sure we have our ponchos with us' and on we went. Our goal was to get to the Blue Lagoon for a swim. Everything was fine for about two minutes til we turned off the road on to a rocky lane way and saw a sign that said 'Blue Lagoon 7km'. I know Lorna was frustrated trying to navigate her way in and out of stones in the road so when we saw a sign for a cave we said we'd take a look. We turned off the rocky lane way onto an even rockier lane. We came up to a small river that looked like it might have appeared overnight. We rented a guide to take us the rest of the way and so we continued on our water themed week by wading up this temporary river for about 2km. I tried very hard not to think about leeches. He took us into this amazing cave hidden behind a tree. It was really something to see apart from the fact he made us crawl through a tiny opening. Note to self: do more yoga because me crawling through that hole was not elegant. After the cave we cycled on. We met a crowd of Laotian children on their way home from school and they all wanted high fives. Like a hero I cycled past a line of children slapping their hands. They were all so cute. So cute apart from one little fella who instead of giving me a high five punched me in the vagina. Not so cute. Anyway, so the blue lagoon wasn't blue. Turns out after a nights rain the lagoon turns a lovely shade of poo. We bought a bag of crisps and after 5 minutes munching we put our ponchos on and cycled 7km home in the lashing rain.




So that sums up our time in Vang Vieng, the most unlikely backpacker party town in the world. I read in the Lonely Planet visitors either adore the place or detest it and that the locals aren't really happy with the rowdy behaviour of tourists. I'm a bit indifferent but then I haven't been here in high season when the town is swamped full of tubers. I suppose we did meet a couple of absolute knobs 'working the season' here. You know the type; young, enthusiastic and thinks he's the shit because he's getting free accomodation and beer in return for talking crap to strangers. We were chatting to a particular fella who said he could never go home to live with his mam as all she does is give out to him for the amount of cups he has in his room. (in fairness my ma goes on about that too.) We were able to do some cool activities here though. The scenery is amazing and we had a few good nights out as well. Which brings me up to this exact moment, having to cancel our onwards bus to Vientiane because we are just too hungover to deal with life. A few episodes of Friends, perhaps? 

P.S. Lorna went on a hot air balloon ride here and it crash landed in a rice field. She's fine. 


Sunday, 20 October 2013

That one time.

Our journeys between stops have been consistently eventful so far. Koh phi phi to Phuket airport we lied to the bus company and told them our flight was within the hour and we got this crazy lady taxi driver that raced us the whole way there using her horn instead of her indicators. Chiang Mai to Pai was the worst bus journey ever; 3 hours, 770 bends and 10 very, very hungover bus mates. Pai to Luang Prabang, well I wrote a whole post on that during the week. And now we just arrived in Vang Vieng. The journey wasn't so crazy considering some of our previous adventures but still out of the ordinary for us poor sheltered Irish lasses. We are just used to order and (possibly over the top) safety precautions. For instance, I was the only one with a working seat belt, some of our luggage was piled up on the seats next to our co-passengers and there was a baby on board without a child seat. To be fair he drove (mostly) cautiously but at one point stepped heavily on the brakes and the baby's head did snap back a bit. Thankfully the mother caught him. I don't know, being here I'm starting to wonder if we live in a little uptight bubble with rules and supervision for everything and anything. I think we live in constant fear of 'that one time' it could go wrong. It hangs over us like a rain cloud. I know myself I have a bad habit imagining every single thing that could go wrong before I do something. I'm a worrier, can't help it.  

But then, things do go wrong sometimes. I'm contradicting myself now but it would be stupid to live in eternal optimism if one simple safety precaution prevented your family falling apart. What if there was one little accident today? I had a seat belt but might have been battered by flying backpackers and their backpacks and not to mention the poor little baby. A disaster for all our families. And what might be surprising is that I think Laos drivers are much more considerate than Thai drivers. 

It seems to be two different attitudes altogether on this side of the world even though we have the same things; roads, children, animals and traffic. Just two different attitudes to the same things. 
 
Anyway, myself and Lorna have booked a kayaking and 'cave tubing' tour for tomorrow. Let's see how much instruction and safety precautions we are given!